A car fuse box develops minor problems like blown fuses, dislocated fuses or impaction of grime and dust along the connectors. A blown car fuse is among the most common of car maintenance problems. If you can locate the car fuse box, replacing blown fuses and troubleshooting other fuse box problems is rather easy.
Fuse boxes are meant to protect the electrical circuits of the car against moisture-induced damage and short circuiting. Most of the car manuals have detailed diagrams regarding the position of the fuse box. It is usually located under the hood of the car. However, some cars might have the car fuse box with the panels of the dashboard.
Among car fuses, there is usually a main, battery fuse. This fuse is most likely to be blown be an unwanted electrical discharge. Please note that when replacing the battery fuse or any of the other fuses, you need an exact replacement. This means you need to match the replacement fuse with the labeled information on the existing/blown fuse. Some of the fuse boxes also contain spare fuses. However, these are prone to being ineffective after a certain period.
Ensure that you are wearing plastic gloves and the car is turned off. The engine too should have cooled down. After locating the car fuse box, assess it for any blown fuses. Such fuses are usually easy to identify. Most of them are likely to develop a blackened hue. However, this isn't always applicable. Thus, you need to test the fuses with a voltmeter. Handling this voltage testing device is rather easy.
You can remove the suspected fuses with a plier. Test both ends of the fuse with the voltmeter. The voltmeter should provide immediate readings for both the ends in the form of its needle moving vigorously. If this is not the case, you need to replace the fuse. A replacement fuse can be bought from any car supply store. The fuses are sold in standard amperage or voltage readings. You don’t need tools to replace the blown fuse, just insert it in its dedicated, empty space.
The fuse holder is likely to be covered with grime and dust over a period. The grime can get deposited along the circuits and hamper the flow of current. Dust covered fuses are like to malfunction even if they are in a working condition. This is because the dust covers the conducting surfaces and acts as a natural insulator. Thus, you need to clean the fuse holder.
Don’t use hard water, harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners for cleaning the car fuse box. Just use a dry cloth. An emery cloth is ideal for this kind of cleaning. You can wrap the cloth over the tip of a screwdriver to clean the internal, hard-to-reach fuse holder surfaces.
A car fuse box is likely to be secured with rivets or a fuse block mechanism. Some fuse boxes even have side clips. These contraptions are likely to get loosened due to the impact of the car’s movement. A loosened car fuse box is likely to malfunction in many ways. For starters, the fuses can be dislocated from their dedicated slots. The fuse box may get hammered against a neighboring car component. Thus, you need to tighten the entire fuse block, rivets or screws. This can be easily done with screwdrivers and wrenches provided as a part of the car’s tool kit.
Putting a kill switch on your go kart engine is a great way to keep yourself safe while riding. The kill switch has two major purposes. First, to be able to kill the engine while still sitting behind the steering wheel of your go kart. The second function is to shut down the engine in an emergency situation. Installing a kill switch is not a difficult job. Begin by getting together the necessary parts and tools to do the job. You will also have to decide if you want a toggle switch or a remote switch. Once you make this choice you are ready to start.
First you will need to locate the fly wheel and take the cover off of your go cart engine. To remove the fly wheel you will need a wrench to remove the 5/8 or 3/4 inch nut holding it on. Once the fly wheel is off, the magneto is exposed.
When connecting the kill switch to the go kart engine you will need to find a metal nut which is located on the magneto. Connect one wire from the kill switch to this metal nut on the magneto. The other wire will need to connect to a ground wire somewhere on the go kart. The best place to connect the ground wire is to a bolt on the engine block. To do this you need to remove the bolt from the engine block and place the wire on the bolt. Once you have the wire on the bolt, return it to the engine and it will now be grounded.
After you have the wires of the kill switch connected to the go kart engine, you need to run the wires to the front near the steering column. One of the most common ways to run the wires is under the seat along the frame. You will need to strap the wires with zip-ties or use wire clamps. When running the wires make sure the wires are not touching any of the parts of the engine that become hot. If you cannot run the wires any other way, you can use heat tape to cover and protect the wires.
Once you have installed the wires correctly you will need to decide where you want to locate the kill switch. The best placement of the kill switch is on the frame close to the steering wheel. This makes it easy to access the kill switch. To mount the kill switch to the frame you can either use a hose clamp or you can bolt it to the frame. To bolt it to the frame you need to drill a hole in the frame.
Now that you have the kill switch wired to the motor, the wires run to the front, and the kill switch mounted to the dash, you will need to check your work again. After you have checked your work to insure everything is connected properly, you are ready to put the flywheel and cover back on your go kart engine. Make sure not to cut the wires you have installed when replacing the cover. You are now ready to test your switch before riding.
I grew up being introduced to Haynes/Chilton repair manual by my father. I'm not a mechanic but a woman who does small repair and or assist one of my boys that are more experienced yet they come in handy, worth the price. Hard to find unless you order online. Don't mind it being paperback easier to carry around the truck. Yes the print is small. If you're having difficulty seeing the get a large magnifying glass that are 8×10 size works great for full page viewing. Otherwise it came in normal package for shipping a book.
Not as good as Haynes Manuals I have owned in the past. Good for the do it your selfer who has limited mechanical skills, but I remember having a copy of the repair manual for my 1992 Chevy Silverado back in the 90's and it had detail instructions on overhaul and repair of every major component on that truck. This one doesn't even have much on the tranny, and the wiring diagrams are lacking. Some of the instruction even include the line "this is best left to a professional maintenance shop". Really? Think my next vehicle I decide to do my own maintenance on, I'll just refer to You Tube and save my money for parts.
First of all - the seller delivered a perfect, new, well packaged book that arrived promptly. No issues there at all.
As for the book itself - anytime I've bought a different vehicle, I've either picked up a Haynes or Chilton manual for it. I'm in no way a mechanic, but can do basic to low mid-level repairs. I've leaned more towards Haynes because (to me), the instructions are clearer, I like the way the photos and illustrations are referenced, and like the layout of the book better. Nothing wrong with Chilton's books (they're very thorough, too), I just prefer Haynes. Unfortunately, this particular manual for myTrailBlazer doesn't seem as complete as some of their other books have been (first Haynes I've had to give up on and go to the internet). With what I've used it for so far (and again, I'm no mechanic), the electrical diagrams, instructions to get into the liftgate, changing the thermostat, oil changes, replacing headlight bulbs and other basics are all fine. Info about the liftgate's latch rod placement, how to get in to change the wiper fluid pump, and the list of OBDII codes all seem a bit lacking. Don't know if they were trying to incorporate too many vehicles or what ... However, even with a few disappointments, it's still well worth the money.
2004 Subaru Outback Wagon Radio Stereo Wiring Diagram
Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Blue/Yellow
Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow/Red
Radio Ground Wire: Black
Radio Illumination Wire: Green
Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Stereo Antenna Trigger: N/A
Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/White
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Green/Black
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red/Yellow
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Black
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Red
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Red/Green
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/Green
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Red
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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Written for Ford dealership mechanics, this factory-published original wiring diagram shows you how to follow the wiring from bumper-to-bumper. It will help you understand connector configurations, and locate and identify circuits, relays, and grounds. You will not find these wiring diagrams in the factory shop manual. Wiring diagrams are black and white, but they frequently have color codes printed on each line of the diagram that represents a wire. Buy now for the best electrical information available.
|Exact Title:||"Wiring Diagrams 2009 F-250, 350, 450, 550, Super Duty"|
|Authenticity:||This item is original.|
|Dimensions:||11.00 x 8.50 x 1.00|
|OEM Part Number:||
This manual set covers 2009 truck models including F-Super Duty 250, 350, 450, 550, XL, XLT, Lariat, FX4, King Ranch, Harley Davidson, regular cab, crew cab, super cab, dually, 2WD, 4WD, with both gas and diesel engines.
|2009 Ford F-250 Super Duty FX4 Crew Cab Pickup 4-Door||2009 Ford F-350 Super Duty Harley-Davidson Edition Crew Cab Pickup 4-Door||2009 Ford F-350 Super Duty XLT Extended Cab Pickup 4-Door|
|2009 Ford F-250 Super Duty FX4 Extended Cab Pickup 4-Door||2009 Ford F-350 Super Duty King Ranch Crew Cab Pickup 4-Door||2009 Ford F-350 Super Duty XLT Standard Cab Pickup 2-Door|
|2009 Ford F-250 Super Duty Harley-Davidson Edition Crew Cab Pickup 4-Door||2009 Ford F-350 Super Duty Lariat Cab & Chassis 2-Door||2009 Ford F-450 Super Duty Harley-Davidson Edition Crew Cab Pickup 4-Door|
|2009 Ford F-250 Super Duty King Ranch Crew Cab Pickup 4-Door||2009 Ford F-350 Super Duty Lariat Cab & Chassis 4-Door||2009 Ford F-450 Super Duty King Ranch Crew Cab Pickup 4-Door|
|2009 Ford F-250 Super Duty Lariat Crew Cab Pickup 4-Door||2009 Ford F-350 Super Duty Lariat Crew Cab Pickup 4-Door||2009 Ford F-450 Super Duty Lariat Cab & Chassis 2-Door|
|2009 Ford F-250 Super Duty Lariat Extended Cab Pickup 4-Door||2009 Ford F-350 Super Duty Lariat Extended Cab Pickup 4-Door||2009 Ford F-450 Super Duty Lariat Cab & Chassis 4-Door|
|2009 Ford F-250 Super Duty XL Crew Cab Pickup 4-Door||2009 Ford F-350 Super Duty XL Cab & Chassis 2-Door||2009 Ford F-450 Super Duty Lariat Crew Cab Pickup 4-Door|
|2009 Ford F-250 Super Duty XL Extended Cab Pickup 4-Door||2009 Ford F-350 Super Duty XL Cab & Chassis 4-Door||2009 Ford F-450 Super Duty XL Cab & Chassis 2-Door|
|2009 Ford F-250 Super Duty XL Standard Cab Pickup 2-Door||2009 Ford F-350 Super Duty XL Crew Cab Pickup 4-Door||2009 Ford F-450 Super Duty XL Cab & Chassis 4-Door|
|2009 Ford F-250 Super Duty XLT Crew Cab Pickup 4-Door||2009 Ford F-350 Super Duty XL Extended Cab Pickup 4-Door||2009 Ford F-450 Super Duty XL Crew Cab Pickup 4-Door|
|2009 Ford F-250 Super Duty XLT Extended Cab Pickup 4-Door||2009 Ford F-350 Super Duty XL Standard Cab Pickup 2-Door||2009 Ford F-450 Super Duty XLT Cab & Chassis 2-Door|
|2009 Ford F-250 Super Duty XLT Standard Cab Pickup 2-Door||2009 Ford F-350 Super Duty XLT Cab & Chassis 2-Door||2009 Ford F-450 Super Duty XLT Cab & Chassis 4-Door|
|2009 Ford F-350 Super Duty FX4 Crew Cab Pickup 4-Door||2009 Ford F-350 Super Duty XLT Cab & Chassis 4-Door||2009 Ford F-450 Super Duty XLT Crew Cab Pickup 4-Door|
|2009 Ford F-350 Super Duty FX4 Extended Cab Pickup 4-Door||2009 Ford F-350 Super Duty XLT Crew Cab Pickup 4-Door|
The 2002 Kia Sportage is a small SUV that is simple to maintain. Each reservoir and part involved in routine servicing is clearly marked with bright colors and the name of the part. Checking your fluid levels is a quick way to ensure the optimum performance of your Kia Sportage, and with regular maintenance, your car will run smoothly and perform longer.
The 2002 Kia Sportage owner's manual suggests using an SAE 5W-30 energy-conserving oil. Your engine's oil capacity is 4.4 quarts, and the oil should be changed every three months or 3,000 miles, whichever comes first.
For a manual transmission, an SAE 75W-30 transmission oil is recommended. For an automatic transmission, Dextron II E or M-III is recommended. The 2002 Kia Sportage hold 2 quarts of transmission fluid. It is recommended that these fluid levels be checked every six months and changed or refilled as needed.
The 2002 Kia Sportage owner's manual recommends a PSF-III power steering fluid. The fluid level should always be between the High and Low indicators on the power steering reservoir. If it is low, add fluid up to the High indicator. It is recommended that these fluid levels be checked every six months and changed or refilled as needed.
The owner's manual recommends an SAE J1703 or FMVSS116 DOT-3 or DOT-4 brake fluid. The fluid level should always be between the MAX and MIN indicators on the fluid reservoir. It is recommended that these fluid levels be checked at every refueling and changed or refilled as needed.
The Buick Century was introduced in 1936. The 2002 Buick Century was available in the Custom and Limited trim packages. Both 2002 Century sub-models were equipped with a 3.1-liter V-6, which produced up to 175 horsepower and 195 foot-pounds of torque. The wheel bearings on the 2002 Century can wear out over time, causing them to need replacement. Replacing the wheel bearings on the 2002 Century requires some mechanical knowledge. If you doubt your ability to complete this project in a safe manner, seek a professional mechanic to perform the job.
[Remove the center cap](https://itstillruns.com/remove-center-cap-7481686.html) or wheel cover from the Buick. Loosen the spindle nut from the end of the axle, which is in the middle of the wheel assembly. Use a breaker bar and a 34 mm spindle nut socket to free the axle nut. Loosen the wheel lug nuts with a tire iron. Raise the front of the car with a jack. Place jack stands underneath the front frame rails, on both sides of the engine. Remove the lug nuts completely, then remove the wheel and tire assembly.
Turn the axle nut outward off of the axle, until the outer rim of the nut aligns flush with the end of the axle. Gently tap the end of the axle and nut with a rubber mallet, until the axle pops loose from the wheel bearing. If tapping the axle does not loosen the axle, place a large jaw puller around the rotor, with the center of the puller mounted in the center of the axle end. Turn the jaw puller bolt head clockwise slowly, until the axle comes free from the wheel bearing, then remove the nut completely.
Insert a small pry bar into the hole in the front facing side of the brake caliper. Gently pry the inboard brake pad inward with the pry bar. Remove the caliper mounting bracket bolts completely with the breaker bar and a socket. Remove the caliper and caliper bracket from the brake assembly. Hang the caliper and bracket from the front strut spring with a metal clothes hanger. Do not let the assembly hang by the rubber hose attached to the caliper.
Remove the brake rotor from the wheel hub assembly with your hands. If the rotor is not able to be moved by hand, gently tap the rotor from the back side outward, using the rubber mallet.
Remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod stem, which is on the back of the steering knuckle. Remove the castle nut from the outer tie rod stem, using a 3/8-inch drive ratchet and socket. Remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle. Pull the steering knuckle outward, while turning the entire assembly so that the front facing side turns inward. Push the axle inward and through the center of the wheel hub assembly. Use the large jaw puller to push the axle through the hub assembly if necessary, until the axle is free from the hub.
Unplug the small electrical connector from the rear of the wheel bearing, on the back side of the steering knuckle. Unhook the wires from the frame, that protrude from the back of the wheel bearing.
Remove the three mounting bolts from the back side of the wheel bearing, with a 3/8-inch drive ratchet and socket. You will have to turn the steering knuckle so that the rear facing side of the knuckle is inward, in order to access one of the wheel bearing mounting bolts. Place your free hand on the outside of the bearing assembly to hold it as you remove the third mounting bolt. If the bearing does not fall free from the hub, strike the bearing with a hammer to loosen it from the hub face.
Install the metal shim plate against the face of the steering knuckle, at the wheel hub. Lubricate the outer side of the metal shim with caliper grease or axle grease. Install the new wheel bearing over the end of the axle, and push the axle through from behind the bearing. Install the axle nut onto the end of the axle and turn it a few times to begin threading the nut. Place all three mounting bolts into their holes by hand, turning the bolts four or five times to make sure they are properly threaded.
Tighten the wheel bearing mounting bolts to 96 foot-pounds with a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and socket. Tighten the axle nut to 118 foot-pounds of torque with the torque wrench and spindle nut socket. Install the brake rotor, and spin one lug nut on by hand to hold the rotor in place.
Install the tie rod back onto the steering knuckle. Tighten the tie rod castle nut onto the tie rod stem to 45 foot-pounds, with the torque wrench and a socket. Install the cotter pin through the hole in the tie rod stem. Bend the cotter pin to lock it into the tie rod stem.
Install the caliper and caliper bracket over the brake rotor. Tighten the caliper bracket bolts to 137 foot-pounds, using the torque wrench and a socket. Remove the single lug nut from the front of the rotor.
Install the front wheel onto the Buick, and snug the lug nuts with a tire iron. Raise the car off of the jack stands with the jack. Remove the jack stands from beneath the car. Lower the car to the ground. Immediately tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds, using the torque wrench and socket.
Sit in the Buick and pump the brake pedal slowly five to ten times, or until the brake pedal becomes stiff again.
Ok, just picked up this 2000 Sport, and going through things making it nice again and I found this vacuum port open on the intake, no plug, no extra lines running anywhere. I have no idea what to do.. Am I missing a line somewhere? just need a plug? TIA
Bet your heater or AC doesn't work right now. Look around, the line that should go on there is laying around someplace close by, probably down underneath.
It may also be part of the purge system - eventually it may set an evap code.
That port is manifold vacuum. It may affect the idle when cold before the computer comes on line, but the PCM will compensate for the extra air and adjust the idle appropriately.
Well, I will look around underneath, haven't seen anything before, actually the heater works very good.. ok only on high but it works right.. Not sure if they could be connected? mmm no fan on speeds 1,2,3 only 4 for that I looked at replacing the blower resistor, (used from salvage yard, 4 of them) and a relay but no worky. Don't feel like throwing another $50 not knowing if it is gonna fix it.
I found 2 pic's of that manifold and both have that port capped. so this is driving me nuts, but no descripition of where it goes. BTW no codes at all got those fixed..
Good question - that port is small compared to the intake leak when it's caught on the studs. If it was as large as the intake leak it would run too fast. The PCM/O2 sensors would see it's too lean, so it adds fuel, the IAC can't compensate for that much extra air and fuel, it does the best it can, but it only can do so much, resulting in an idle way too fast.
Small manifold leaks like just a sealing problem or the proverbial cracked manifold act the same as that port open. Find them easily with propane.
You have that port on yours, try pulling it off. Idle will change a little, then go back to normal. IAC in action!
I'm not sure - it's been awhile since I looked, but that port may even have an orifice inside, small mirror and flashlight will tell.
It's a good place to attach a vacuum gauge for troubleshooting too (plugged exhaust, valve action, restricted intake, etc.)
I looked on my 01 and the front port goes right over to the evap purge valve on the fender well. The line that your arrow is over the top of is what mine is connected to
The Ford Sport Trac was a variant of the Ford Explorer SUV, with a small truck bed. Not all Explorers or Sport Tracs came equipped with cabin air filters; however, kits were available to convert the vehicles to support cabin air filters, and there were some Sport Tracs and earlier models of Explorers that did come equipped with the filters. Cabin air filters are fairly new to the automotive industry. They are designed to filter the pollutants and allergens from entering the passenger cab of a vehicle.
Open the passenger side door of the Sport Trac and locate the cabin air filter housing door, beneath the glove compartment.
Remove the retaining screws of the cabin air filter housing door with the Phillips screwdriver.
Remove the cabin air filter housing door.
Reach up inside the cabin air filter housing and pull the strap-handle of the cabin air filter downward to remove the cabin air filter from the housing.
Install the new cabin air filter by reversing the removal procedure. Align the directional arrow stamped on the side of the new filter in the downward position inside the cabin air filter housing.
Replace the cabin air filter housing door and the retaining screws.
Delco Remy alternators are fitted to many types of cars. They are widely available, inexpensive and rarely go wrong. Each Delco Remy alternator is slightly different in design, but the company has made identification of a Delco Remy alternator easy. You can identify the exact model number.
Open your car hood and secure it. Find the Delco Remy alternator. It is bolted to the side of the engine block about halfway down and has a pulley wheel on the front that the alternator belt goes around.
Look to see if the Delco Remy alternator has vent holes in the side. If it does, it's unlikely to be an authentic Delco Remy alternator as they are distinct from other alternators by having a rear fan that intakes air to cool the alternator rather than a side ventilation system.
Look at the rear of the alternator. It is the area where you can clearly identify a Delco Remy alternator. All the wiring terminals are on the rear of the alternator. You also see a fan inside the rear cover that cools the alternator.
Read the label on the back of the alternator. It tells you the model number, voltage and ampere rating.
Under the label the name Delco Remy is moulded into the aluminum back plate. Underneath the name the words "Made in U.S.A" are also moulded into the plate. On some alternators the model number is also moulded into the plate. If your alternator has moulded inscriptions, you can be sure you've identified a Delco Remy alternator.
In order to disable the alarm from your 2002 Mazda Protege, you will need one of three things: your Protege's remote control, your Protege's ignition key, or a fuse puller. The alarm can be disabled through the remote control, by fully locking and unlocking the vehicle's ignition, or by removing the alarm fuse from the engine compartment fuse panel. Be sure to not leave your alarm disabled for an extended period of time, as this can make your Protege more vulnerable to theft.
Press the "Panic" button on the remote control to stop the alarm from going off.
Press the "Unlock" button on the remote control twice to temporarily disable your Protege's alarm. Inserting the key into the ignition and fully turning it all the way toward you and then all the way forward will also temporarily disable the Protege's alarm. To permanently disable the alarm, you will need to remove the alarm fuse.
Open the hood and remove the fuse block's cover. The Protege's fuse block is located in the corner of the engine compartment.
Remove the fuse in slot 57 with a fuse puller. This is the alarm fuse and will be labeled "ALARM." To reinstall the alarm system, simply reinstall the fuse into the fuse block.
View and Download MSD 6A 6201 installation instructions manual online. Amp Ignition Control Box. ... MSD Digital 6A and 6AL Ignition Control .... Page 19 MAGNETIC PICKUP (NOT USED) If you did not find a schematic to match your ...
Digital 6AL Ignition Control Box · Ignition ... A sealed, locking connector keeps the minimal wiring of the 6A tidy for a clean installation in all applications. It can be ...
Note: Solid Core spark plug wires cannot be used with an MSD Ignition. Note: An MSD 6 ... 6AL, 6ALN, 6BTM: These ignitions are equipped with built-in Adjustable Soft Touch Rev ... on recommended coils, consult the supplied Coil Application Chart or check with the .... the block or firewall which creates an electrical shield.
That is why we have assembled the MSD Ignition Wiring Diagrams and Tech ...... be connected to the battery negative terminal, engine block ...... This section covers the installation of the MSD 6A, 6AL, 6 BTM, 6T and the SCI Ignition Controls.
Whether your an expert Volkswagen electronics installer or a novice Volkswagen enthusiast with a 1997 Volkswagen Cabrio, a Volkswagen car stereo wiring diagram can save yourself a lot of time. One of the most time consuming tasks with installing an after market car stereo, car radio, car speakers, car subwoofer, car amplifier, mobile amp, mobile navigation or any car audio electronics is identifying the correct color audio wires for a 1997 Volkswagen Cabrio.
The Modified Life staff has taken all its Volkswagen car radio wiring diagrams, Volkswagen car audio wiring diagrams, Volkswagen car stereo wiring diagrams, Volkswagen car radio wiring schematics, Volkswagen car wiring diagrams and cataloged them online. Feel free to use any Volkswagen car stereo wiring diagram that is listed on Modified Life but keep in mind that all information here is provided “as is” without any warranty of any kind and most of the car audio wiring diagrams listed on our enthusiast website are submitted by the Modified Life community. Use of the wiring information is at your own risk. Always verify all wires, wire colors and diagrams before applying any information found here to your 1997 Volkswagen Cabrio.
If you can’t find your car audio wire diagram, car stereo wire diagram or car radio wire diagram on Modified Life, please feel free to post a car wiring diagram request we’ll do our best to find you the information you need for your mobile audio installation.</p><p>If you would like to help the Modified Life community by adding a car audio wire diagram, car stereo wire diagram or car radio wire diagram to our resource, please feel free to post any additional car audio information about the 1997 Volkswagen Cabrio on this page.
1997 Volkswagen Cabrio Car Radio Stereo Audio Wiring Diagram Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Red Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Orange Car Radio Ground Wire: Brown Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray/Blue Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: N/A Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/Black Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Orange/Black Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red/White Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Orange/White Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red/Light Green Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Orange/Black Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/Light Green Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Orange/Red
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I think my alternator is not grounded properly and they keep going bad. where can i find the diagram for these ground wires?
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.